Ferries from Skinnarbu kai

Seventeen and a half nautical miles across Møsvatn in 105 minutes, twice a day: departures at 09:30 and 13:30, with returns at 11:30 and 15:30. Fourteen sailings a week each way on the vessel Fjellvåken, running to the first week of September.

Two round trips a day on a reservoir this remote is a generous service, and the length of it — nearly two hours each way — is what makes the crossing worth taking rather than walking round.

Møsvatn sits on the edge of Hardangervidda, the largest mountain plateau in northern Europe, and Mogen at the far end is a staffed tourist lodge with no road to it. The lake was dammed for hydropower early in the twentieth century, which raised the water and drowned the old crossing points. The boat that replaced them now serves walkers heading out onto the plateau, where the wild reindeer herds are.