Ferries from Haugen brygge

Haugen's two legs differ by a factor of three: Femundshytta is 1.4 nautical miles and 15 minutes, Jonasvollen 4.5 miles and 45. Ten sailings a week on the longer leg, seven on the shorter.

The morning departure is at 10:00 and the last of the day at 15:45. On a lake this size — 60 kilometres from end to end — a boat that only works six hours has to choose its calls carefully, and Haugen gets two of them.

The shoreline here is inside Femundsmarka, a national park of pine forest, bare rock and thousands of small lakes left by the ice, with no roads across it. Musk oxen wander in occasionally from the Dovre herds. For anyone walking between the cabins in the park, the boat is not scenery — it is the only way to cover the length of the water without adding two days on foot.